This area was once a super lake of approximate 30 meters deep, over an area of about 80,000 sq km.  Due to climate change the lake has since dried up, leaving behind large glistening salt-encrusted pans.  The pans are flat and stretch as far as the eye can see, dotted occasionally by rocky outcrops and large sand dunes.

The Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, covering approximately 4,900 square kilometers, includes some of these large salt pans.  The pans outside the National Park however include some the largest salt pans in the world exceeding 12,000 sq km.

These pans are almost devoid of human habitation, however there are villages on the periphery and in between the pans there is evidence that the area has supported human life during the stone age.  Today, the area contains a large number of animals who migrate to the grasslands in the West of the park after the rains.

The name Makgadikgadi implies a vast open lifeless land.  There are stories of people setting out from Gweta to explore the land that lay between them and the Boteti River to seek a favourable environment in which to settle.  These people did their exploring during the driest times of the year and were drawn by what they perceived as large lakes of sparkling water on the horizon.  As they got more and more thirsty, the lakes kept drawing them on in their attempt to reach the water.  However dehydration took its toll, and they slowly died.

However, the Makgadikgadi Pans are not always dry.  During the rains from mid November to April, the pans which are situated in half the South, East and North Eastern areas of the park, fill with water.  The pans are now sheets of water, attracting numerous water birds and trigger the migrations of wildebeest and zebra.  During this time, this natural wonder unfortunately becomes inaccessible by road.  Flying over the pans during the wet season, one sees a water wonderland of beauty.

The Makgadikgadi was initially state land and was declared a game reserve in 1970 and in December 1992, the boundaries were extended and game reserve became a National Park.  The park cover approximately 4,900 square kilometers.

Vegetation:

The Makgadikgadi National Park has four main vegetation types, namely, riverine woodland, scrubland, pure grassland and salt pans.  Palm groves and Baobab trees are found in the pans.  The Baobab Tree looks like the branches are roots and is often known as the ‘upside down tree’.  In between the trees are short spiky yellow grass found on rises between the pans, known as ‘prickly salt grass’.  This is extremely saline resistant to the extent that salt crystals can sometimes be seen on the leaves.  The interior of the reserve comprises scrub and grassland with a few ‘islands’ of Real Fan Palms and Camel Thorn acacia.

Wildlife:

During April to November, game such as springbok, gemsbok, wildebeest, and zebra move slowly from the pans in the South East of the park, to the Boteti River on the Western side of the park.  Animals accumulate in their thousands during this migration. One can also see shy antelopes like duiker and bushbuck in heavily wooded areas beside the river.

The game viewing within the park is best from April to July.  The best months to experience the pans is between March to September. Most of the animal and bird life in this area is prevalent during the rainy season (mid November to April) and this is when the areas are normally inaccessible by vehicle.

The main objective in visiting the Makgadikgadi National Park is not to view game, but to experience true remoteness and absolute isolation. It is vast, wild, completely untamable and supremely beautiful!

If the rains are good and river water floods into the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, the area undergoes a complete transformation.  Tiny crustaceans hatch and algae blooms in order to provide food for the large flocks of flamingos that reside in this area during this time of year.  One can view approximately 30,000 breeding pairs of these birds which makes the surface of the pans turn a deep pink.  The main area in which this occurs is in the Eastern part of the National Park, in the Sowa Pan area.  Numerous other water birds are abundant during this time of the year and the best place to see them is at Nata Bird Sanctuary, just off the main road at the Northern end of Sowa Pan.

The variety of birdlife found in the Makgadikgadi area is outstanding and the grasslands are home to a wide range of animals.  The birdlife however is a specialists dream.  Examples of birds that can be seen are whitebacked and lappetfaced vultures, bateleur, ostrich, kori bustard, black korhaan, bronze winged courser, different species of sandgrouse and a variety of larks.

Makgadikgadi National Park Specialties:

*Flamingo breeding season on Sowa Pan
*Riding a quad bike across the desolate pans
*Night sky covered with a blanket of stars
*Feelings of total isolation
*Complete and unrelenting silence
*Self discovery
*If fortunate enough, staying in a luxury lodge by the salt pans
*Exploring stone age tools

Access to the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park :

The Makgadikgadi Pans National Park is situated halfway between Maun and Nata on the Francistown road in the Northern part of Botswana.  The most common access is by road.  When driving, you will see a turnoff to the parks main entrance approximately 160 km East of Maun and 45 km West of Gweta. 8 Kilometers after turning of the main road, you will arrive at the park entrance gate, where you need to check in and pay your national park fees.

Nata and Gweta are the closest towns to the pans and at both towns, one can fill up with fuel/petrol.

If you are doing a trip into the pans by vehicle, please make sure you let somebody know where you are going.  It is advisable to travel with a group of one or more other vehicles.  Make sure you have sufficient fuel with you as well as food and plenty of drinking water.  A compass is a good thing to have with you as well.  It is not advisable to travel on the pans during or just after the rains.  If you do, you are more than likely going to get stuck or lost.   A 4×4 vehicle is necessary as the road has sandy patches as well as patches of black cotton soil.

Seasons:

The rainy season is during our summer months, which is between November to March/April.  During this time, the pans fill up and retain water until April or May.  During this time, much of the Park becomes inaccessible by vehicle.  The best way to view the pans during this season is to fly over the pans.  You will then also see the spectacular flamingo flocks.

The dry season is between April/May to September/October.  Strong winds blow from August to October.

Both wet and dry season visits to the park are recommended in order to experience the dramatic differences in the area during these 2 seasons.  During the dry season, the pans are dry and during the wet season, the transformation to a water wonderland is unbelievable.  During the wet season, one can also experience the wildebeest and zebra migrations

Accommodation in the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park area:

There are no lodges actually inside the National Park.  The area outside the park however offers both camp site facilities as well as lodges.